How To Shop a Large Antique/Vintage Jewelry Show - Forbes
Wednesday, January 16, 2019

How To Shop a Large Antique/Vintage Jewelry Show - Forbes

Whether you are a serious antique and/or vintage jewelry collector or a novice, shopping one of the largest U.S. antique shows can be both exhilarating and overwhelming. OMBAS (The Original Miami Beach Show) has been in existence for 55 years with exhibitors who specialize in all periods of jewelry. The 2019 show, features over 400 of the best international jewelry dealers and owners of antique retail shops who come together under one roof to show and sell their wares to loyal clients and new customers. The show runs from January 26 through 29th  at the Miami Beach Convention Center. Prior to the fair opening, it will feature two days of an educational History Series with lectures, conversations, panel discussion and more to assist you in brushing up on your knowledge before you hit the floor running. And, there is a lot of territory to cover.

With less than two weeks until the big event, we have gathered some information to help you to navigate a show this size.  Here are some details and questions to ask yourself before you shop this show or any large fairs you attend in the future.

We enlisted an expert in all time periods, Diane Richardson of The Gold Hatpin in Chicago to share some of her tips. She has been dealing in antique and vintage jewelry for over 30 years and will be an exhibitor at the show.

Gold Hatpin's Victorian garnet and yellow gold braceletGold Hatpin

1-    Get an advanced copy of the exhibitor list and floorplan. If you know any of the dealers, this will help you to plan out your route.

The Spare Room Antiques Georgian Past earrings in silver topped goldThe Spare Room Antiwues

2-    If this is your first time at the show, you might want to do some research on the time frames of jewelry you are interested in and which dealers specialize in them. These periods include Georgian/Regency, Victorian, Art Nouveau, Edwardian/Belle Époque, Art Deco, Retro, mid 20th Century and vintage 70s.

Keyamour Victorian Pansy wedding banglesKeyamour

3-    You can start to follow different dealers you have found in the catalog on Instagram to see what they have to say and view their photos and what they are previewing for the show.

Humprey Butler diamond heart Victorian pendantsHumprey Bultler

4-    You can find out more information by browsing shops and researching the antique and vintage jewelry books, museum and auction catalogs and online sites to see which time frames you are drawn to. Also look at examples of the most popular pieces and prevalent details of each era and get familiar with them.

Moira Fine Jewelry Victorian enamel and diamond snake braceletMoira Fine Jewelry

5-    At OMBAS there is an educational series two days before the show opens. Check out the lectures and see which pertain to you and what you want to learn. This will be beneficial and will give you a crash course in antique and vintage jewelry that you will be seeing on the show floor.

Alpha & Omega's untreated treated Burmese and diamond Edwardian ringAlpha & Omega

6-    Diane Richardson recommends, “to figure out if you are you looking for something in particular, say an antique garnet bracelet to go with the antique garnet ring your grandmother left you, or are you attending with no other goal than to be delighted and inspired by the beautiful and rare merchandise you will encounter.  If you’re shopping with a purpose, be goal-oriented and walk the aisles in order, stopping at the booths of dealers who might have what you’re looking for. If an exhibitor doesn’t have what you are looking for, you can ask for them to suggest someone who might.  Most dealers are happy to help a customer find what they’re looking for, even if it’s not in their own booth.”

7- Richardson notes, “If you are attracted to a piece and you want to know more about it, ask the dealer to talk about it.  Most dealers enjoy discussing their merchandise and are eager to convey their enthusiasm for their pieces in hopes of finding kindred souls who love what they find intriguing. You may begin a new collection this way or discover something that you didn’t know you needed, or at least pick up some new bit of information.”

Pat Saling's Platinum Tank bracelet with diamonds circa 1950s

8-    Starter collectors might want to visit dealers who carry pieces from a diverse range of periods to learn more about what you are looking at. Don’t be afraid to ask to try on pieces to get the feel of them. If the dealer brushes you off then you might want to move on to someone like the dealers Richardson is and the type she mentioned.  You should look for not only great pieces but the exhibitors who will be happy to talk to you about whether a piece is an original or has been ‘put together or reproduced, about the stones and settings, the provenance and hallmarks.

Wilson's Estate Jewelry's signed Krementz 14K gold and enamel Art Nouveau braceletWilson's Estate Jewelry

9-    If it’s your first time at a show and you are interested in purchasing, you should take a friend who is more knowledgeable or hire a consultant for a couple of hours. Sometimes dealers are working with multiple customers at a time and although they will try to be helpful, it becomes difficult for them to talk to different people at the same time.  If you are serious about buying a piece that might be out of your comfort zone, you could use the support in deciphering what is authentic, the pricing, what might be reproduced and/or altered.  If you don’t have a friend or the resources to hire someone, then take the time and research as much as you can on the internet in the evening and if you still want the piece go back the next morning.


Simon Teakle’s Art Deco Diamond bracelet by Cartier, circa 1928Simon Teakle

10-     Richardson adds, “Take notes of who has what at what price. Ask for a business card with the booth number on it so you can return later if you’re not ready to make a decision on the spot. But, she continues, “be prepared for disappointment if you leave the booth without your treasure and someone else snaps it up before you return.  Remember that if you feel confident with the dealer, the time to buy an antique is when you see it.  If it’s gone it may not reappear anytime soon.”

Keyamour's French enameled chain (Art Nouveau Period)Keyamour

11-     Think about your lifestyle and the type of piece you want to buy. If you are active and you want to wear the jewelry every day, ask if the piece can take this type of wear. For example Georgian rings are silver topped and closed back with foil between the stone and the setting to enhance the color of the earlier diamonds and colored gemstones. They are beautiful but beware you cannot wash your hands with them or you will ruin the foil and the color will fade and show the earlier stone cuts’ imperfections. Anything that is over 200 years old should be handled with care and should not be worn on your hands, fingers or necks all of the time.

Moira Fine Jewelry Fob antique fob chainMoira FIne Jewelry

12-     Before you shop set your budget. This is especially important for new collectors. The  Victorian era is a safe place to start thanks to the industrial revolution and the ability to produce a variety of sentimental and symbolic pieces that are quite detailed. They have a language all of their own and they are highly wearable without worry. They command less tony prices than earlier, rare Georgian jewels in excellent condition, Art Deco designs, and /or signed pieces of the early 20th century.

13-    For the consummate collector who has already built a collection and is adding to it, never underestimate building relationships with dealers. You can contact them in advance if you are looking for something specific and they can bring it to the show for you to look at. If you are a repeat customer and they sense loyalty — they will offer the same back.

Simon Teake's Belle Epoque ruby and diamond necklaceSimon Teakle

14-     Invest in the tools of the trade or at least one. Purchase a 10x jeweler’s loupe and learn how to use it to look at the stones to see if there are chips or cracks as well as looking at the shanks, to check if there are hallmarks –this will help you to ask questions and become your own expert along the way.

Pat Saling Boivin diamond and pearl earringPat Saling

15-     When you do purchase a piece, ask for a receipt that has as much information as possible including a full description, time period, provenance, whether the pieces are hallmarked and price. Therefore, if you find out you bought something that isn’t what it is supposed to be, you should be able to return it.

Spicer Warin Art Deco earrings in diamonds

16-    Ask if the dealer has a better price. This is expected at a show so never be apprehensive about asking. The dealer will tell you if they can come down or not and will be more surprised if you don’t pop that question.

Sandra Cronan's brown center diamond gypsy ring with engraving on top and bottomSandra Cronan

17-    Richardson’s final suggestion: “Take a break now and then.  Grab a snack, stay hydrated, wear comfortable shoes, stop for lunch where you can sit down and refuel.  You’ll make better decisions if you’re hydrated, fed, and refreshed.

Now you are ready to go treasure hunting!

Sandra Cronan 's retro aquamarine and ruby ringSandra Cronan




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