Jewelry

When the French come to New York, they make a statement. On Thursday, Hermès showed its Enchaînement Libres collection stateside for the first time, with a presentation at Jazz at Lincoln Center. After a contemporary dance performance choreographed by Christian Rizzo, models in all-black ensembles marched around a stage inside The Appel Room with piles of jewels heaped on their necks and wrists. "Freedom in chains" may seem oxymoronic, but the power and movement of these oversized, asymmetrical designs could not be denied; they seemed to have a minds—and bodies—all their own. With the chain as its central design, the Enchaînement Libres collection—designed by Pierre Hardy, creative director of Hermès jewelry— honored the house's heritage as a saddler and harness-maker. There were also nods to the nautical world with anchor motifs, another Hermès hallmark of the famed Chaine d’Ancre link. Still, what you expected to be a simple chain was disrupted, whether in size, color, or substance: there were brilliant white gold and diamonds, and also more unusual materials like titanium, orange sapphire, and black jade. One thing's for sure: it was not wallflower jewelry. Take a look at some of the highlights of the collection below.