Jewelry

A First Look at Prabal Gurung's New Handmade Jewelry, Which Debuts Tonight in His Spring '17 Show - Vogue.com

Sustainable is a buzzword that’s used a bit loosely these days. Fashion companies slap it on their websites and Instagram bios, but you have to do a little research to figure out who’s for real and who’s co-opting a hashtag. One designer who consistently prioritizes sustainability in his ready-to-wear collections is Prabal Gurung—although you probably didn’t know that. “When I launched my company in 2009, I wasn’t thinking about it as a ‘sustainable brand,’” he tells Vogue.com. “I knew it needed to be about the product first. That’s how brands should start, and the sustainability conversation should come second. I think that’s why we’ve been successful—I always say that sustainability has to be sexy.” When you see a stack of Gurung’s lofty cashmere sweaters at Barneys New York, you can’t tell they were responsibly produced in Gurung’s native Nepal, where he’s created job opportunities and provided education for hundreds of children through the Shikshya Foundation. When you find out, it’s just icing on the cake.

The same is true of Gurung’s new jewelry collection, which will debut on his Spring ’17 runway tonight. He gave us an exclusive first look at the oversize, sculptural silver earrings, which were handmade in Nepal from recycled metals and evoke flower buds. “I wanted to highlight Nepal’s special crafts,” he says. “These artisans have been making jewelry for generations, but they’re dying arts. Technology is taking over, but there’s something very Old World and charming about the flaws and imperfections in handcrafted goods.”

Gurung name-checked artists Taryn Simon and William Kentridge as his inspiration for the new jewelry and ready-to-wear. He recently saw Simon’s exhibit at the Gagosian Gallery, which features photographs of floral arrangements that might have sat on the table during a historical meeting or negotiation. Kentridge uses flowers in his work, too, often juxtaposing them against political propaganda. “It all really ties back to this new idea of feminism,” Gurung says. “Being a feminist today isn’t about burning your bras or being against men. My girl isn’t afraid of her femininity, and she’s aware that her biggest strength comes from embracing it.” She’s the type who would feel just as comfortable wearing Gurung’s new earrings with an embellished gown or jeans and a T-shirt—and who doesn’t want to be that girl? Check back later this evening for Vogue Runway’s complete coverage of Gurung’s show, including backstage photos, moving runway looks, and Nicole Phelps’s review.