Jewelry

Jewelry Designer Ana Khouri On Her Solo Exhibition At Phillips Auction House - Forbes

Designer Ana Khouri believes that jewelry is so much more than mere decoration. For her, they are works that enrapture the senses. They relate something about both the wearer and the creator. They are pieces of art.

With all that rhapsodizing, it should come as no surprise, then, that the Brazilian-born, New York-based Khouri has a degree in fine arts, with a specialty in sculpture, from the Fundação Armando Alvares Penteado in São Paulo. She’s also certified by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), which is also not a surprise, as she is a contemporary fine jewelry designer.

But what is perhaps unexpected, at least for staunch classicists, is Khouri’s new solo exhibition at Phillips—one of the world’s leading auction houses—that’ll feature 50 of her pieces (which range from $10,000 to $2 million) from a career that spans just five years. Titled “Jewels Now – Ana Khouri,” the showcase will be held at the broker’s Park Avenue location from September 14th to 16th.

She is the first contemporary jeweler to garner this distinction at Phillips. And though she is relatively young, she has already received a great deal of commercial success. Her mix of geometric and organic forms, often with clusters of brilliants and pavé gemstones, has graced countless magazine covers, celebrities on the red carpet and is sold at some of the best-known luxury retailers. Also, Phillips is, by many accounts, the most subversive of auction houses, and has been known to promote emerging talents.

“Phillips recognizes Ana Khouri’s work as a contemporary artist, and it is our position that we have a responsibility to share our knowledge and introduce artists and their work—to give artists a voice and a space,” said Susan F. Abeles, Phillips’ SVP and Head of Jewels. “An exhibition platform not only provides exposure, but also provokes a conversation and dialogue, which prompts change. Works and how they come to exist are not born in a void, but through interaction and expression from the artist. We are really honored to offer Ana Khouri’s jeweled sculptures.”

Bottom line: “Jewels Now – Ana Khouri” benefits both parties. Phillips bolsters its fashion cachet by enlisting one of the hippest designers in the industry, and Khouri—who, thus far, has been very discerning with her points of sale—has found a new lofty revenue stream among the deep-pocketed art crowd. Indeed, as much as art is a form of expression and so on, it also has to make money—or else it probably wouldn't be on the auction block.

Here, Khouri elaborates on her pieces and how having the exhibition at Phillips will affect her business.

How has your background in fine arts influenced your business?

I believe my background and love of sculpture plays heavily in favor of my work, allowing me a richer understanding of the creative possibilities that weren’t being explored in jewelry design. My idea of jewelry goes beyond the intended purpose of ornamentation, entering more into the realm of art and sculpture. The designs are about the myriad ways that a piece can take shape on the wearer, and the balance the work creates with the body. In the same way that an ordinary object can be elevated to the level of art, so too can jewelry be further elevated through a renewed focus on its form and design.

How did this exhibit with Phillips come about?

We started the conversation casually and the more we got involved in it, the more it all made sense. “Jewels Now - Ana Khouri” marks a special milestone for me, as it’s the first exhibition solely dedicated to my work at an auction house. We will be showcasing over 50 pieces of high jewelry over the course of a three-day period.  It was a very organic process and it has been an amazing experience to work with Phillips.

Why do you think you were the first contemporary jewelry designer to get a solo exhibition? 

Rather than answering this myself, I will give you the words of Susan Abeles, Phillip’s Head of Jewels. She mentioned my works are feminine, engaging and unique. She also said, they are unique gem canvases. Beautiful, fluid and creative. And lastly, that I have also changed the way people interact with and wear their jewelry.

How would you describe the design of the exhibition and the pieces you plan on showing?

Through shapes and volumes and connections that we haven’t encountered before, my aim is to bring attention to the essence that went into creating these pieces. I hope that everyone who comes to the exhibition will leave with their own internal reflection, and, ultimately, a more intimate and personal connection with the pieces themselves. If beauty is something that is fluid and abstract, then it is not intrinsic to any particular material. Sometimes the fairest things are the most ordinary, and sometimes, the things that are automatically said to be so, because they are precious, are not.  I don’t simply want my pieces to adorn, or to stand alone as beautiful objects.  I want my designs to evoke their connection to space—its vastness, its majesty and its superlative form.

What do you think you will get out of showing your pieces at an auction house like Phillips? How will this affect your business?

Being that Phillips is a combination of a major art institution and a respected action house. Working with them has been a privilege. They are very respected in their field and have a great reach. We are still a small company and we wish to remain so, as we cherish our independency and freedom to create as we wish. We never participated in any jewelry fairs or sales showrooms, as we see our work as collectible pieces rather than a business to drive sales. For that reason, we believe showing our work with Phillips brings the right synergy to who we both are.

How would you describe the relationship between commercial fashion and fine art?

High jewelry work demands so much of the artist. Our private clients are collectors of our one-of a kind pieces and expect us to work that way. That is fine art to us. We also work on fine jewelry with the Editions pieces that are sold with a few retailers we choose to work with—such as Barneys, Net-A-Porter and Dover Street Market. That is a more commercial approach. I would not say that our edition pieces are commercial fashion though. I believe there is not much of a relation between fine art and commercial fashion in my opinion.

Do you plan on showing at exhibitions like this one in the future?

I believe the present is always the highlight, and the best if yet to come.

Follow Barry Samaha on Twitter (@barry_samaha) and Instagram (@barrysamaha).