Stephen Webster’s radical world of jewelry - Houston Chronicle
London-based designer Stephen Webster is known for pushing the boundaries of fine jewelry.
His latest work, Vertigo, is the final collection of his Altered Perspectives Trilogy. It’s a bit avant-garde and “Matrix”-like. The collection of earrings, rings, necklaces and more twists and hinges gold and titanium into altered states. It’s both architectural and bold.
Webster will be in town Nov. 7 at Zadok Jewelers, where he’s sold exclusively in Houston. Prices range from $3,000 to $50,000.
Before his visit, the artist and craftsman chatted about being a force in the jewelry world for more than 40 years — and how he’s helping the next generation get there.
Q: How did the idea for jewelry trilogy come about?
A: This trilogy was born out of the sort of idea of uncertainty and feeling a bit of being out of place. That’s what we’re all experiencing at the moment, whether that’s through the digitalization of our world or the politics.
Q: “Trilogy” pieces look very intricate and technical in design. Were they difficult to create?
A: I wanted this very angular collection of jewelry to be as modern as I could with the materials we use. So I wanted to incorporate titanium and some ceramic and use those to become part of the illusion.
Q: How long did it take to create Vertigo?
A: It’s been two years. That’s quite a long time. Last year we launched one set of earrings, which had a modern approach to a cameo. I entered into the Consumer Design awards of Innovation and it won. I want people to look at something and judge it as it stands, rather than in the context of anything else, you know?
Q: Do you consider yourself a jewelry designer or an artist?
A: After 45 years as a jeweler, I think I’d probably say we definitely are artisanal. Having lots of friends who are very successful artists, I’ll tell you, we are a creative force. I’m very lucky that years ago we become recognized for a style that was quite disruptive in a lot of ways in the industry of fine jewelry, which was a quite conservative space.
Q: Did you have this vision of doing what you’re doing now growing up?
A: Only when I got to 16. When I went to art school and discovered that there was a thing called jewelry and people made it. Prior to that, no. I didn’t know I could be any good at making jewelry. But when I started and I found out I was, it was the most exciting thing I could ever imagine. I didn’t want to be a designer, I just wanted to make jewelry the best I could make it. So I spent the first 10 years perfecting that.
Q: You have a passion for helping the next generation of jewelry designers. Tell me about that.
A: I’ve had a mentoring program for about 10 years with the focus on skills. We’re finding that more people want to join the jewelry space, but the skills are lagging behind with the demand. I’ve been very instrumental in London trying to support more crafts people. People want to be a designer, but they don’t want to learn the craft.
Q: What’s something surprising about you?
A: I like poetry. That probably surprises some people. Every now and again I have a crack at it, but that’s for my personal self indulgence.
Q: So, are we going to see a published book of poems by you?
A: I did do a book called “Gold Struck,” which I published a couple of years ago and still feels very relevant to me.
Q: What’s next?
A: I feel really good about what we’re going to put out next year. It’s all about color, and it looks like fun to wear. This is the opposite of jewelry you put in your safe. Is she wearing it and enjoying it? That’s what it’s about.
