Jewelry

Jewelry Mixologists - Forbes

Lately, whenever I interview a jewelry expert: retailer, designer or historian, I find myself jotting down a quote that approximates this belief, “women today are looking for something different, they prefer to stand out from the crowd, rather than blend in.” But how to do that in today’s ever-changing retail environment? Savvy independent contemporary designers are become jewelry mixologists. They have tapped into the modern woman’s ever-evolving desire for the soul, character and backstories of antique and vintage jewelry. And they are combining different time periods, metals and gemstones with abandon to create looks that are anything but common and that that appeal to women on a visceral, emotional level.

 Three modern jewelry designers have recently added a section of antique and vintage pieces to their websites, their trunk shows and pop up events. What these designers have in common? All are influenced by symbols, silhouettes and details of the past and have translated this into their contemporary lines. All are antique and/or vintage jewelry collectors themselves who can’t pass up rummaging through antique fairs or hunting down a rare find. And all wear a mash-up of their current designs, new and old pieces with confidence and chic nonchalance.

 Ariel Gordon recently launched her ‘Heritage’ collection on her website to commemorate the anniversary of her 10th year in business. Her contemporary line reflects on different time periods from the Victorian Era through the 1970s with familiar favorites such as zodiac and monogram pendants, signet rings, charm and curb link bracelets, all with Gordon’s own playful yet ultra-wearable spin. “These are the type of pieces you give or receive for special occasions, can gift yourself and that you can wear all of the time. It's always been a fantasy of mine that 100 years from now, someone will discover one of my pieces, and it would have the same special meaning to them as antique or vintage pieces have for me— the stories and memories, collected over the years.”  

When talking about her foray into antique and vintage jewelry, Gordon explains, “Although I was inspired by old-world details and classic shapes that have been around for centuries, I began to want to know more about the nuances of each period and began going to antique trade shows, flea markets and through introductions of dealer friends, became privy to private collections.” She continues, “I remember the first piece I bought. It was a Victorian locket with a north star and crescent moon with rose cut diamond in 15K gold. After that, I couldn’t wait to find the next piece and I continued to learn more and ask the right questions as I purchased each new piece. At first, I was buying for myself and then realized that the elements of the antique and vintage pieces began to inspire my collection even more. I also realized that many of the pieces I was attracted to were pieces that seemed as current and modern today as they did in the time they were made.”

That’s when Gordon decided to curate a collection that would harmonize with her own designs. In choosing the pieces, it was extremely important to Gordon that they be relatable and would speak to her customers, the way her own collection does. The ‘Heritage’ collection consists of approximately 230 pieces, 175 which have already been added to her site at present. “I didn’t want to overwhelm my customers so I have added the pieces slowly.” These are comprised of authentic Victorian lockets and pendants, heavy fob chains as well as longer length chains from later periods, stick pin and brooch conversion pieces, a variety of charms from the 40s through the 70s. “The ‘Heritage’ collection will be curated by themes on the website—from celestial to romance with symbolic motifs which include crescent moons, hearts, horseshoes, flowers, birds and stars layer and mix with my modern designs and also are imbued with the added appeal of their alluring history.” Says Gordon.

Sarah Hendler’s maternal and paternal grandmothers both had a passion for jewelry that was passed down to her, along with their rare and unique pieces from the Art Deco period through the 1970s. “My grandmothers both wore jewelry throughout all stages of their life, therefore they collected pieces from different time periods. The styles I first saw them wearing and were eventually gifted to me inspired me in my first collection and continue to do so today. Spherical rings from the mid-century with starburst settings set with different colored gemstones, enamel detailing, linear earrings with vibrant stones, lariats that turn into bracelets all combine and juxtapose influences from different eras in Hendler’s collection.

Hendler is not new to the vintage jewelry business. She has consistently run a side business in creating ‘estate’ jewelry departments for brick and mortar retailers for which she chooses both costume and fine pieces. “The mix I chose depended on the store and what their aesthetic and the price point they could handle.” She explains.

 Giving a nod to Coco Chanel’s iconic style of combining faux chains with authentic and glass pearls, ancient coins and antique charms, Hendler will wear her 14K and18K gold current pieces with gold-filled and fine pieces from the Victorian era and layered 18K gold mid-century vintage chains and heavy pinky rings with her spherical styles. And she pulls it all together with an effortless appeal.

 She has recently changed her business model, adding antique and vintage pieces to her website which will be target directly to the consumer and working with Shop Mille for a collection of estate jewelry on it’s website. “My goal is to offer pieces that don’t break the bank and that can mix well with the pieces I am designing.” She continues, “if you look at what women want today in antique and vintage, it’s the pretty Victorian or Edwardian rings, gold heavier chains links in bracelets and necklaces, assorted charms from different time periods, earrings from every era, and the more pared-down timeless pieces by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso in the 1970s.”   

Hendler was lucky enough to play with all of these pieces at her grandmothers’ houses when she was young and they have since become the heirlooms in her personal collection. “These are the types of pieces I am featuring on my website—those that have withstood the test of time and will continue to do so.” Her most recent acquisitions are lockets from various periods and retro 1940s bracelets which have an ultra-modern feel to them and blend seamlessly yet make a statement with pieces in her contemporary collection.

Ashley Zhang creates a small, well-edited collection of handcrafted and sustainable pieces. Her look is accessible with details of the past recreated into wearable, versatile pieces for now and into the future. Her line consists of staples that bring in elements from different eras. Her engagement rings comprise a major part of the collection and display a variety of diamond cuts. “I have always loved the rich history and romance of vintage and antique jewelry,” she explains, “and it has a huge impact on my design aesthetic. When I chose to launch my brand I knew that I would eventually add a selection of antique and vintage pieces to compliment my pieces on my website. That is how I style my own jewelry.”  

The pieces that Zhang buys are from the Victorian, Edwardian/ Belle Epoque and Art Deco periods. “The pieces that were popular in these eras seem to work best with my designs.” She says. And I try and keep prices accessible so that women can continue to add to their combinations.” 

When asked what her personal favorite antique design is that she combines with her own jewelry, she admitted, “there are quite a few, but there was one piece that I bought when I first started collecting that I wear most often. It’s a half-carat diamond and platinum Art Deco engagement ring. I love to wear it as a pointer or middle finger ring and mix yellow gold modern bands around it. I love the intricate detailing of piercing millegrain work and the geometric shapes that were popular during this era.”