Jewelry

Holiday Gift Guide: The Best Jewelry Books - Forbes

All women need a jewelry fix. If this year’s gift wish list includes the most fashionable gizmos and gadgets, a warm weather vacation or the trip to Tuscany she’s been longing for, you can still add a little sparkle and shine to your loved one’s life with these new titles and reprints of classic jewelry tomes. Most might not fit into your stockings hung over the fireplace, but all will be a welcome surprise for any holiday the receiver celebrates. If she loves to read about personal adornments from the past or excitedly flips through photos of royal pieces that seem to jump off the page, follows legendary houses or finds all of these subjects enticing, she will be thrilled when she unwraps her new jewelry find. For more titles please see my story Hitting The Books here which featured advanced jewelry books that would also make exception gifts .

 BEHIND THE SCENES

Francesca Cartier Brickell had me at “grandfather’s 90th birthday”, where she begins her introduction to her book when she and other relatives gather at his house in the South of France to celebrate. I have read many of the works on Cartier, written about the iconic house, legendary jewels and the stars that bought them in my own book, but The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire (Ballantine Books, November 26, 2019) pulled me with its mix of the personal and historical. Francesca Cartier Brickell’s art of weaving the two together, along with the extraordinary jewels for which Cartier was renowned show her mastery as a born storyteller with quite a tale to tell. On the day of Jean-Jacques Cartier’s 90th birthday, he sends Francesca, his granddaughter down to the cellar for a vintage champagne he has saved for the occasion. Instead, she found a trunk with hundreds of letters from generations of the Cartier family and clients such as King Edward II, Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia, Coco Chanel, the Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly and Queen Elizabeth. She also uncovers family truths, triumphs and tribulations throughout the years. The uncovering of these letters sent Francesca on a mission to track down missing pieces of family history. It has resulted in the hard-to-put-down account of the generations of the Cartiers and the famed jewels of the global dynasty. It briefly illustrated throughout by photos of the jewels, the celebrities and royalty who owned and wore them and archival photography. It is, however, a book to read, rather than a splashy coffee table book and I recommend it for anyone who is both a jewel-ophile and bibliophile.  

THE LEGEND CONTINUES

While we are on the subject of Cartier, if you are in the market for a major coffee table tome with amazing oversized photos as a gift then I would recommend The Cartier Collection: Jewelry by a host of authors including François Chaille, Michael Spink, Christophe Vachaudez, and Thierry Coudert and contributors Pierre Rainero, Pascale Lepeu, Violette Petit, and Jenny Rourke If you either missed the release date or thought you might wait for gift-giving time for this luxurious two-volume collection (Flammarion, April 2019) , it’s a lavish treat for the Cartier collector or enthusiast or anyone who desires a beautifully illustrated look at more than 3000 pieces dating from the mid-nineteenth century through present. Awe-inspiring, the set features Cartier pieces from the collections of Queen Elizabeth, the Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes, and Barbara Hutton among other celebrities and royalty. The full-size reproductions of pieces, extensive documentation, and illustrated chronology and index offer a full scope of the designs of Cartier over decades, highlighting the house’s ability to change with the times and create original, rare and daring pieces in unique color schemes and legendary precious gems.

    More than 1200 objects and drawings from Cartier’svast archives, some previously unseen, are reproduced at actual size.

 THE UNEXPECTED

Renowned jewelers such as Jean Schlumberger, Van Cleef & Arpels, Jean Fouquet, Carlo Giuliano and René Lalique all specialized in fine jewelry but there is another aspect to their work—costume jewelry which originally mimicked the fine styles of the times. In 

Adorning Fashion, (ACC Artbooks November 2019) author Deanna Farneti Cera explores the evolution of costume jewelry over the past four centuries and the designers who continue to develop it into an art form rather than it’s beginnings as an affordable alternative for the middle class. This book offers a comprehensive and definitive overview of costume jewelry. Although there have been books written on the topic before, Adorning Fashion follows the development from mid-18th century France through Victorian sentimentalism to the pieces that accessorized Couture and ready-to-wear runway collections through the mass-produced pieces of today.

The pieces we also know as ‘fashion jewelry’—styles in non-precious metals began being elevated to a new level with excitement and unexpected creative by such luminaries in this field as Miriam Haskell, Christian Dior, Kenneth Jay Lane, Paco Rabanne, Yves St. Laurent and Balenciaga. Others who designed in both worlds include Salvador Dali, Verdura and Chanel. 

In reading or even just flipping through this book with beautifully photographed pieces, you will gain a new understanding and appreciation for what costume jewelry has meant as a medium and an art form. You will find full-page photos of jaw-dropping pieces that challenge your eye as to whether the pieces are real or not. Identification tips and historical anecdotes are given throughout the book. This is a wonderful gift for those who love to be pleasantly surprised.

LEGEND AND LEGACY

It’s always a bonus when you see a film, play or read a book that includes a quote about jewelry of the period or renowned jewelry in it.Shakespeare did this often in his plays as did many other playwrights, screenwriters, novelists and poets. One of them was Noel Coward. A short dialog from one of his comedies Easy Virtue goes like this: Charles (opening a case) – Will you smoke?

 ^{Larita – I’ll smoke one of my own if you don’t mind. I get a bad throat if I change. I smoke far too much.}

 ^{She takes a cigarette out of her case.}

 ^{Charles (lighting hers and his own) – that’s an enchanting case.}

 ^{Larita – It is a darling.}

 ^{Charles – Cartier?}

 ^{Larita– No, Lacloche. I’ve had it for years}. 

This was written in 1924 and the lines reveal a lot about Lacloche’s technique, craftsmanship and body of work. Not only was the jeweler famous across the Channel. The house's cigarette cases like their jewelry were exquisite and were aligned with the modern woman at the beginning of the roaring twenties. A new exhibit accompanied by a book pays tribute to the iconic European jewelry house from 1892-to 1967. The monograph which highlights the exhibit and tells the story of Lacloche’s legacy is called Lacloche Joailliers (October 2019 France, Norma Éditions, with the support of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Art) The book is co-written by the curator for the exhibit Lacloche Joaillers Laurence Mouillefarine with Véronique Ristelhueber. For anyone who has never seen or felt a Lacloche piece up close and personal from the time the company launched during the Belle Époque periods, many of the pieces took on the company’s innovative technique of creating pieces with the look and hand of real lace, punctuated by floral and Asian designs. They are breathtaking to behold. The book and exhibit examine these pieces and more which were part of the Parisian firm Lacloche Frères and later Jacques Lacloche which adorned over four generations of crowned heads, including Queen Victoria of Spain, the Duchess of Westminster, the kings of Greece and Siam, and Grace Kelly. 

The company was founded in Paris in 1901 by three brothers, Lacloche Frères and was renowned for its elegant designs and exquisite workmanship. Established on the rue de la Paix in 1901, it also had boutiques in Madrid and London, as well as branches in Nice, Biarritz, San Sebastián, Cannes and Deauville. The tiaras, bracelets, pins, clocks, and ladies' accessories (vanities, cigarette cases) embodied the spirit of Belle Epoque, Art Nouveau and Art Deco, and are some of their best-known pieces. This is the first book to trace the history of the Lacloche family business. One of the most exciting aspects is that both the exhibit and monograph offers the description of the treasure hunt that has allowed the company to bring together the jewels that Lacloche Frères displayed on their stand during the legendary 1925 Paris Exhibition des Arts Décoratifs. The jewels were traced to various locations all around the world in both public and private collections. Alongside the pieces in the book are gouaches of pieces in the 1925 exhibit. The text is in English and French as is an in depth look into a company that is known among collectors but less among the general public with designs that were ahead and perfect for its time. This is a book for the woman who wants to discover outstanding jewels and be able to go back and look at them over and over again.

DISCOVERING THE PAST

 If your gift-giving to a historical jewelry buff who want an expert’s eye and education on the jewelry from the Middle Ages to the 21st century, then order a copy of  Jewels & Jewelry  by Clare Phillips, author, historian and V&A Museum curator. The book has gone into several reprints since it first came out in 2000 for a reason. It’s a must-have for the jewelry library, informative, easy to follow and the subjects and/or time periods can be read in different sittings without losing the flow. It actually might be better to read it this way to get the full scope of each period. The last reprint (Thames & Hudson, May, 2019) Covered in this edition are the styles, movements, materials, provenances and periods in jewelry that span centuries My personal favorite aspect of the book is that displays a jaw-dropping selection from the world-renowned permanent collection of the V&A Museum with perfectly chosen and photographed illustrations of this collection. Phillips has also penned Jewelry: From Antiquity to the Present and contributions to Art Nouveau 1890-1914, Silver, International Arts and Crafts, The Cult of Beauty, Alexander McQueen for the Victoria & Albert Museum publications.

THE MEMOIRE VOLUMES

You’ve got to love the small triple memoire volumes in a slipcase that Assouline publishes. These are great stocking stuffers and pack a wealth of information, illustrated by breathtaking photos. The new and forth Chaumet Slip Case Edition (Assouline, November 2019) includes  Precious Time, The Art of the Line and Les Ciels de Chaumet 

Chaumet is one of the famous and oldest jewelers of Place Vendôme in Paris, the first jewelry on the square and it continues its high jewelry collections which was first established in 1780. Known for unparalleled innovations and workmanship, it continues to live up to its reputation with each new collection. 

Les Ciels de Chaumet (by Domizio Sassetelli)focuses on the Maison’s newest collection which is inspired by the mystery of the terrestrial skies and magic of the celestial which the house has continually interpreted throughout the years. Precious Time (by David Chokron) explored the innovative jeweled watches in chronological order. The Art of the Line (by Jérôme Neutres) reveals the artistic ideas, sketches, gouache and watercolor paintings of the designs. Chaumet has preserved an unprecedented 65,000 drawings over two and a half centuries which represents the initial stages of its jewels. This book features some of these creative drawings. 

Another stocking stuff I came across while researching books was released earlier this year in summer and slipped by silently because it was published in France. It is now being sold on Amazon and at museum stores and through the ACC Artbooks website.  The Art of the Jeweler Excellence and Craftmanship (Editions Gallimard, June 10, 2019) This title created in partnership with Ecole des Arts Joailliers, place Vendôme in Paris, offers deep insight into the craft jewelry of making through 10 specialized craftsmen including but not limited to The Modeler,The Jeweler, The Gemologist, The Metal Caster, The Diamantaire, The Engraver and Carver as well as other areas of the art and technique of creating jewelry. For a small book, it is visual with archive material, preparatory drawings, paintings and photos of major pieces by Cartier, Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chaumet and Mellerio. For anyone who wants to know how jewelry is made from start to finish, this is the perfect compact book that features a wealth of knowledge and understanding about each phase of this amazing art form.

 BEYOND BEAUTY

Beyond Extravagance: A Royal Collection of Gems and Jewels, 2nd Edition (Assouline, December 2019) expands and updates the first edition which was published in 2013 and featured the centuries-long tradition of jewelry and art objects in India, from the Mughal Empire to the British Raj, to contemporary interpretations. Presenting a journey through the history of Indian jeweled objects, this new edition features updated chapters by renowned jewelry experts including Vivienne Becker (The Impossible Collection of Jewelry); Katherine Prior (Maharajahs’ Jewels); Michael Spink, a specialist in Islamic and Indian art who lectures at the University of London; and Robert Skelton, one of the foremost authorities on Indian painting and objects. Edited by Dr Amin Jaffer, Senior Curator of The Al Thani Collection, each section includes a detailed catalogue of featured pieces and highlight over 400 jaw-dropping objects including inscribed imperial spinels belonging to emperors Akbar, Jahangir, and Shah Jahan; the Idol’s Eye diamond, the Tiger’s Eye turban ornament; and the Nawanagar necklace, designed by Cartier for Maharaja Digvijaysinhji of Nawanagar in 1937 using an exceptional group of oval and cushion-cut Burmese rubies. This is a book with museum-quality pieces for the collector who gravitates toward the history of different cultural jewels and objects of art.